La vie en rosé – Chapter Seven

The final proof that rosé has come back is that it now figures both in the mid market recommendations of magazines and newspapers and in the down market advertisements from the bulk dealers like Dan Murphy in Australia.

The Stelvin top is here to stay, and hooray, I say, to that!


VII. Another advantage and contribution of the Rosé Renaissance has been the stelvin top. rosay_stelvin.jpeg I have seen the stelvin top tried three times in Australia. The first two times it was with downmarket wines and each time it failed to catch on. The last time, starting in about 2000 was a group of quality wine makers from the heart of Australia’s quality wine industry in the Barossa Valley who put premium riesling in screw caps. I am happy to say that this time it has been a success. I see even red wine with some bottle age, and bottle age potential, under stelvin caps now, and about time, too. Though I still hear young foggies going on about corks when I am sleuthing the shelves in off-licenses in England, gas stations in France, the department store in Germany, and bottle shops in Australia. There is NOTHING to be said for corks in wine bottles except that it was the practice for a long time in the absence of anything better: better = stelvin cap. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stelvin You want proof you dreary pedant, I’ll give you proof. Most of the cork trees in the world are in Portugal. (Look it up in Wikipedia if you must.) Well, guess what? Mateus rosé from the very same Portugal now sports the aluminium cap of Mr. Stelvin. I call that proof with a double capital P. (Get it?)
Since there is no pretense that rosé is aged it happily accepts the stelvin top. When twisted the stelvin top snaps open with a crisp sound that anticipates the flow of the wine within.
The final proof that rosé has come back is that it now figures both in the mid market recommendations of magazines and newspapers and in the down market advertisements from the bulk dealers like Dan Murphy in Australia. http://www.danmurphys.com.au/ The secret is out there!
Over the course of this project my own tastes have changed. I have come to prefer the Sancerre style, which at the outset, I did not even know existed, though the Clairette style is also scrumptious. I have also found some very cheap Sicilian wines that are excellent. In Australia the Sancerre style is approached by several wine makers whom I am now keeping in business. I have also discovered that Kaiser Stuhl Rosé still exists, no longer in bottles but in a four litre cask. No I have not been there yet, but who knows what the future brings? I did finally try the two litre Greek I saw at Amato’s. Wine, yes, but lacking any other feature, and no information on the back. Alcoholic water.
rosay_2.jpeg
One of the tiresome aspects of leading the Rosé Renaissance is typing the word rosé, inserting the accent ague each time. The replace function does not accept cut-and-paste so I cannot drop “rosé” into it, and I cannot type the accent in either. Furthermore, email in Outlook does not accept the accent with grace. I thus am grateful to Tom Angelo for suggesting “rose-ay” as an email substitute. It does the trick, Tom, thanks.
Back to OOPS. So I bestowed an Order of the Pinks on myself with a nifty certificate (custom designed by me while waiting for yet another budget meeting where I was told again to cut the spending and raise the quality, one learns how not to listen to this cant) cleverly adored with images of some of the grape varieties that may go into rosé, recognizing my services to rosé, only some of which service is chronicled above.
If I have not said enough to satisfy you (as unlikely as that seems), for further information start with these two links. Start, not finish, I said. I, too, am a pedant.
http://www.taunton.com/finecooking/pages/c00070.asp
http://www.terroir-france.com/wine/rosewine.htm
The end.